Tikhvin Cemetery

As we had been to Saint Petersburg many times before we decided to visit some spots off the beaten path. Erkki remembered once he had been to a beautiful cemetery and wanted to re-visit it. So one of the mornings we headed to Ploshchad Aleksandra Nevskogo metro station.

Tikhvin Cemetery (Тихвинское кладбище) is located at the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. It was established in 1823, some of the notables buried here are: Fyodor Dostoyevsky, Pyotr Il'yich Tchaikovsky

It was an early morning and the cemeteries were not yet open (keep in mind, they are open from 9:30am every day except Thursday) and we walked around the monastery.

Alexander Nevsky Monastery

Alexander Nevsky Monastery

There were not many people as the next service at the monastery church starts at 10am on most weekdays. The absence of people was compensated by numerous birds.

Alexander Nevsky Monastery

On one side if the road there is so called "Master's Cemetery where famous writers, actors and composers are buried. The monuments were beautiful but a little too formal.

Some details from Master's Necropolis

On the other side of the road lays 18th century necropolis where rich and noble but not famous people are buried. The monuments there were to  our mind less formal, more symbolic and more creative.

General view of necropolis with monastery background

Some monuments were complete multi-figured sculptures using different materials.

One of the complex monuments

This monument uses different colors of marble

Some were high reliefs with complex poses, emotions and symbols: the person buried here was among others founder of the science academy and supporter of arts which is represented by a globe and lyre in the bottom left corner.

A very sad monument: look at the depth of emotions!

Some mid-reliefs were made of bronze and represented complex heraldic compositions including coat of arms, armor, flags, scull and bones... In the 18th century it could be read as a book as every element made sense.

Bronze heraldic composition

There were more transparent symbols: crying figures...

Crying figures

...some demonstrated what "laid to rest" means

Laid to rest

It was a surprise for us to see on many tombstones skull and bones. For a while we were sure it was pirate symbol. Up until we visited Camp Hill cemetery in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. We were surprised to see skull and bones as a repeated motive on many tombstones. 

The skull and cross bones are know as a Memento Mori, a reminder of our own mortality if you will, the hour glass also serves as a reminder that the sands of time are running out.

Information board explained that this motive was used in earlier burials and was later on replaced by winged heads. We were surprised to find out that

It is estimated that up to 1750 at least 90% of the gravestones displayed winged skulls. The oldest stones have grim images suggesting pessimism about the soul ascending to heaven. Note the use of symbols such as bones, hourglass or flames of hell. 

So skull and cross bones not only are used in Jolly Roger but also in tombstones that can be found in Europe, America and now Russia:

Scull symbols: the bottom sculls look happy even though the souls represented by bees are obviously leaving them... 

There were many more symbols: anchor apparently symbolizing a seaman, cut down tree with its crown next to it, hooped snake symbolizes eternal life - no beginning, no end, hourglass - passage of time, phoenix bird - rebirth, rose symbolizes beauty... There was even a masonic  eye within a sunburst.

Other symbols

St. Peter & Paul fortress

The sun does shine in St Petersburg, even in November! On the 4th day of our trip we were rewarded with sunny weather combined with dramatic skies.
On our last day we decided to visit the Peter and Paul Fortress. It is the first and oldest landmark in St. Petersburg, built between 1712 and 1733 on Zayachy Island (Rabbit Island) along the Neva River. Both the cathedral and the fortress were originally built under Peter the Great.

We also knew that the fortress had served a sort of Russian "Bastille" being the prison for numerous aristocratic (such as "Decembrists" - aristocratic movement trying to establish constitution in the eraly 19th century) or simply dangerous prisoners such as Tadeusz Kościuszko fighting for independence of so-called "North-Western district" containing parts of nowadays Belarus, Ukraine, Poland & Lithuania, Tsarevich Alexis - Peter I son and even Marshal Josip Broz Tito - statesman of Republic of Yugoslavia, to name more resent characters.


Despite all these facts we never visited it during our previous visits to St. Petersburg so this time we decided to catch up.

Dramatic skies. Spit of Vasilyevsky Island and "Flying Dutchman" sailboat.

View from Kronverk bridge

Kids on Kronverk bridge

View to the spit of Vasilyevsky Island from Zayachi Island

From the Kronverk bridge you can see the Bell tower (with spire). It is the dominant feature of this cathedral and the fortress. Not only is it an architectural symbol, it is also a lightning rod protecting the cathedral.

General view of Zayachy island with bell tower

We walked around the fortress walls. There is a nice walkway and at this time of the year instead of hords there was barely a young mother with a stroller or a jogger.

The fortress wharf

Inside the walls there are numerous museums: wax figure exhibition, exhibition of armor, panoptikum... You can also rent replicas of historical costumes and take photos.

The cathedral's bell tower is the world's tallest Orthodox bell tower. Since the belfry is not standalone, but an integral part of the main building, the cathedral is sometimes considered the highest Orthodox Church in the world. ©Wikipedia

Within the fortress walls

The sun came out and we walked along the lanes towards the cathedral.





The Peter and Paul Cathedral

The cathedral houses the remains of almost all the Russian Emperors and Empresses from Peter the Great to Nicholas II and his family who were finally laid to rest in July 1998. ©Wikipedia



 Even though according to Wikipedia...

The cathedral's architecture also features a unique iconostasis (the screen which separates the nave of the church from the sanctuary). ©Wikipedia

...we were not able to see it. The cathedral was locked and the only people who were let in were the ladies wearing working clothes who were obviously involved in the reconstruction work. Speaking of reconstruction, we were surprised to find out that...

When renovators were working to clean the angel upon the spire in 1997, they found a note bottle left in one of the folds of the angel's gown. In the note, renovators from 1953 apologized for what they felt was rushed and shoddy work (Soviet premier Nikita Khrushchev wanted the angel refurbished for the 250th anniversary of the city that year).   ©Wikipedia

We really felt respect o those unknown renovators who felt sorry for doing a lousy job. 

The cathedral seen across the main square

Walking along the fortress streets we found ourselves facing quite an unusual angle...

Saint Petersburg

Some cities, they say, are beautiful at any time of the year.
Well... This time we were to check out the beauty of Saint Petersburg in the month of November. Of course we would not recommend this time of the year for St. Petersburg visits but if you happen to be there do not hide in the warm vicinity of your hotel but still explore the city.
Of course you can still visit suburban palaces (Peterhof, Tsarskoe Selo, Oranienbaum (Lomonosov), Pavlovsk, Gatchina) and admire their interiors, for example, beautifully restored Amber Room (or Amber Chamber). But we believe that the surrounding parks constitute a huge part of their charm. As most sculptures are boarded up for the winter do not ruin your first impression, come back when it is warmer.
Do not get disappointed though. The city still has a lot to offer, even in November. Let us invite for a walk!

Winter Palace seen from Palace Embankment

Neva river offers a lot of views, too.

Masts of a sailboat

Spit of Vasilyevsky Island is a popular spot for picture-taking among the newlyweds. They will be here any time of the year.

Newlyweds are taking pictures at a distance. In the background - tower of The Peter and Paul Cathedral  Zayachy Island with the world's tallest Orthodox bell tower

The Peter and Paul Cathedral

Newlyweds. Looks like white wedding gowns are no longer popular.

View to the Winter Palace across Neva from Vasilyevsky Island

Another group of people that will be here rain or shine are fishermen. Or is it a fisherwoman?

Winter Palace with fisherman in the foreground

Horses from The Blagoveshchensky (Annunciation) Bridge with golden dome of Saint Isaac's Cathedral (or Isaakievskiy Sobor) in the background. At the time (mid 19th century) , it was the longest bridge in Europe.

Palace Embankment with a view to one of the canals

Bridges of Saint-Petersburg:

Some sculptures were still open:

Hercules in Alexandrovsky Gardens

Panoramas of Saint-Petersburg: