Food and travel

The food is a very big part of our travel experience. But even though we already started with some pointers for restaurants worth of try and food curiosities out there, we think that there are still many aspects that travelers often do not take in consideration while abroad.

Here are some thoughts how to better enjoy food while traveling.

1. First and foremost, in order to enjoy all these strange or even weird food stuff out there you have to stop comparing it to what you are used to back home.

Have you ever tried limpets?

How about Banana-Ananaz?

Maracua-Ananaz?

Maracuja-Tomato or Banana-Maracuja?

...or.. this fruit? (Sorry we did not get its name)

2. Second – keep an open mind, quite often things or combination of things what you never considered edible can be rather delicious.

How about Scabbard fish with shrimp mousse and... banana?

3. The third rule what we have on our travels is to eat and drink the local!!

Famous Spanish ham - Jamón serrano

Jamón serrano (Spain)

Basque pintxos (small snacks served on a slice of white bread and spiked with a skewer or toothpick)

Grilled Octopus (Greece)

However it is not always possible but at least we try it and make adjustments afterwards: there are places in the world where there is no authentic local food available or it is not really considered edible by our standards. Caribbean islands being a good example: the only authentic food there we found – conch fritters - and it basically tastes like deep fried anything. And as locals deep fry everything, even deliciously fresh local fish is killed properly in boiling oil. But man has to eat so we had to stick to some touristy fusion restaurants where, despite the price factor, it is possible to find something more palatable.
And speaking of Caribbean – while on beach try to avoid the so cool beach Rasta bar! They more often then not make these exotic cocktails in umbrella infested coconut shells with some cheap local industrial Rum. It looks good, but it makes you  very drunk very fast and as a free addition you will kill much more brain cells then you calculated for + terrible headache will follow the exotic experience and spoil the rest of your day. We know – we tried , and shameful to say but more then twice.


But back to food….

4. It is also important to understand that in different regions people have different eating habits time-wise – for example southern people in Europe eat their dinner much later then northerners are used to. Adjusting your biological clock to new rhythm is often the hardest part. So if you try eating at the time you are used to while on vacation you might be limited to food establishments that are open only for tourists and will miss all the authentic experience. Try to find food before 7:30pm in the Mediterranean! The only option you will have is sandwich, burger or kebab. All restaurants where locals eat will not open their doors before 7:30pm and the kitchen will follow at 8:00pm. It is logical: all boutiques and shops (except for a handful of big supermarkets) are open till 7. So the employees have time to close the business and make it to dinner.
Do not believe the signage telling you about authentic food experience in tourist restaurants – we have visited more than 70 different countries and tourist traps sell always some fusion of local stuff and the chef's idea of what a tourist is supposed to like ( usually burger with some local addition ).



5. As a rule of thumb – places where locals gather and what tend to be crowded at peak hours - though often funny hole in the wall that does not smell so nice – tend to have the best food. Beautiful sea view and overpriced burger are usually reserved for misinformed tourists with heavy wallets.

As comes to Spanish cuisine (last 4 months we have been cruising between Spain main land and Canary Islands) we ended up pleasantly surprised by the variety and quality of food.


Of course, we have to stop longer on tapas tradition. We absolutely love this format of food. You wish just a snack with your wine take one tapas, you feel bit hungrier – let us have another one.

An example of tapas platter served in Teguise, Lanzarote, Canaries Islands

They are comfortably small portions with endless variety of food combinations priced from 1 euro in rural areas up to 3-4 euros in Barcelona fancyish wine bars. Usually finger licking delicious and affordable snack, and when you get to know tapas geography better then there is kind’ a sport of Tapas hopping – bit of wine and white bait in that bar, glass of vermouth and blood sausage in other… and so on as much your head and wallet can take.

Pan con tomate - bread with tomato - a typical Catalan starter, in some places is still served automatically

Pimientos de Padrón - a variety of sweet peppers coming from  Padrón fried in olive oil 

Canarian tapas platter: chorizo (sausage), olives, fried bread, pimientos  de Padrón, variety of cheeses and gofio - typical Canaraian food.

And there come Spanish classics like Jamon Iberico (Local dried ham, depends on region taste varies – our favorite being slightly smoked)...

...all kinds of Morcilla (black pudding that usually comes in the shape of sausage, but can be just dish made with blood – no –no food for vegetarians )...

...seafood in coastal towns ( you cant get shrimp taste so sweet if it is still not dancing while you cook it)...

In fish market in Cadiz we got serious drooling fit – the selection was huge, crustaceans alone were 6 different kinds + lots of fish - some still alive. Olives are supposedly the best in Cadiz region, but French from Provence boast the same about their olives and Italians - about their Sicilian olives.  So at the end of the day you have to visit all these places and choose your favorite – seriously hard task, they are all so good. But we are up to the challenge.


And each village (or actually each finca) makes them their own special way, how they were taught by their parents and grandparents – a world of tastes in this little olive.


Soon to be continued.....


P.S. Read more about pasta in La Laguna & simple food in the Canaries.

Word in defense of pasta

We must admit we never thought high about pasta.

Most probably it has to do with the way we were brought up. In Italy pasta is worshipped and considered a form of art. Names are lovingly and thoughtfully given to different shapes – fettuccine, cannelloni, orzo, penne, linguini, pappardelle… Same comes to sauces – carbonara, marinara, Bolognese…Cooking pasta to achieve the desired texture – not too hard yet not overboiled soft – is considered skill that requires a lot of practice and not everyone can master.

Unlike in Italy, back home all shapes are named macaronis with the only exception of spaghetti. Macaronis, along with boiled sausage and hard-boiled egg, are considered bachelor’s food. So here we have it: no need to peel, chop, pre-heat pan to a certain temperature. Just make the water boil, drop half-pack in and single man’s dinner is ready. Advanced bachelors can add canned meat thus achieving and advanced form – макароны по-флотски or seamen’s pasta.

That is pretty much it with pasta back home.

So with that in mind the perspective of going to a restaurant and ordering something that back home can be cooked even by a culinary-challenged man, did not appeal to us.

Unappealing it was until, while hiding from unexpectedly started rain, we walked in the hospitable open doors of Rucola & Grana, Italian restaurant in La Laguna on Tenerife island.

We were full so we were not looking for anything but a cup of hot double espresso. But when a waiter gracefully placed a plate of pasta on a neighbor’s table we felt that our pre-conception about pasta started to shake.

Not only were we full but also in a hurry but we did feel that Rucola & Grana was a good reason to pay another visit to La Laguna. And what can be a better way to spend our last call to Tenerife?

For starters we ordered focaccia with extra garlic to share.

For the main course we chose two different kinds of pasta – the very reason we came all the way here. The menu was only in Spanish so till the last moment it was a mystery what we would get. We ordered Cappelletti rellenos de carne, con salsa de tomate, jamón serrano, rucola y queso ahumado - as much as we know Spanish the idea of queso ahumado (smoked cheese) seemed appealng. The other pasta was Trío de rosette de pasta rellena de: ricotta y espinacas, jamón y fontina, setas y ricotta, gratinado al horno con bechamel, parmesano y salsa de tomate - we figured that since it is trio there would be three different kinds of pasta and if we don't like one of them we wont leave hungry.
Unfortunately their official site is only in Spanish but if you happen to be in La Laguna, here you can find more info in English.

Trío de rosette de pasta rellena de: ricotta y espinacas, jamón y fontina, setas y ricotta, gratinado al horno con bechamel, parmesano y salsa de tomate

Cappelletti rellenos de carne, con salsa de tomate, jamón serrano, rucola y queso ahumado

This was honestly the best pasta we ever tried. Funnily enough, it was not in Italy (as the best pizza what we had was not in Napoli!) but this tiny restaurant on an island in the middle of the Atlantic made our day. If you want to restore your faith in pasta pay a visit to Rucola Y Grana.

Tallinn. Maarjamäe castle: Communist heirtage

We continue exploring Tallinn.

Now you know that the Old City is not the only spot worth a visit. Pirita district offers an opportunity to visit the ruins of a Bridgettine monastery - if you come daytime, or an unusual concert hall if you come in the evening.

Another spot worth a visit is  Maarjamäe loss - Maarjamäe castle, also often called Orlov Castle as it was a summer residence of Count Anatoli Orlov-Davydov.

Before the Count bought it the hill it successively bore several names. At the end of XVI century a battle between the troops of Russian Tsar Ivan the Terrible and Brotherhood of Blackheads took place here. So the hill was called Battle Hill - Lahingumägi in Estonian or Strietberg in German (as most nobles were of German decent). 

Then a sugar factory was built here and so it was called Suhkrumägi - Sugar Hill. As the factory was using Brazilian sugar cane and English coal by 1837 the enterprise was not anymore profitable so it was converted into all times profitable business - distillery - in 1860.

Despite the the industrial presence, the hill by the seaside saw continued use as a recreational area so no wonder in 1873 Count Orlov acquired it and gave it its present name:  Marienberg or Maarjamäe, likely in honour of the countess or daughter (both were Marias). 

A medieval castle with an octagonal tower was built. It also had a monumental gate eagles (the name Orlov derives from eagle)...

Eagle at the gate

...fountain adorned by a lion...

...and an attractive stair leading to the sea. Nowadays one can only imagine how impressive it was as after Pirita tee - Pirita Road - was built stairs lead to the bus stop and the road.

Gradually a manor-style park grew around it. The park comprised not only stables, servant's quarters and other auxiliary buildings but even countess' painting hut. Orlov-Davydov definitely had taste for a beautiful life.

Beautiful life ended with Russian Revolution: in 1920s Orlov-Davydov emigrated to France and the buildings were leased out as a vacation site. Then the building housed Dutch Consulate, a restaurant with pretentious name 'Riviera Palais' and finally since 1937 - a flight school. After Estonia was annexed by Soviet Russia, the castle was converted into shared apartments building (Soviet invention - an apartment where several families live sharing bathroom, toilet and kitchen).

Since 1975, the buildings house the Estonian History Museum covering the period from the beginning of the 19th century. The permanent exhibition contains replicas of interiors: merchant, peasant, worker at Krenholm factory and even the office of the first president of Estonia and a hut where lived metsavennad - forest brothers, partisans who waged a guerrilla war against Soviet rule.

Another reminder of Soviet times is in the museum backyard: monuments of the Soviet epoch are laying here without any specific order.

One can find here the sculptures of Estonian war heroes (those who fought on the Russian side, of course), Communist party leaders and of course Lenin & Stalin themselves.

Lenin

Wintertime the famous communist leader looks sometimes like orthodox Jew...

...and sometimes like a punk...

...but his famous "kind and wise eyes" can now be looked at a closer distance.

Stalin - whose name made people tremble - is now harmless and is treated more like scrap metal. 

After Estonia along with other Soviet Republics broke free from the Soviet Union and gained its independence, it was unclear what to do with Soviet heritage: monuments, street names, national holidays... Each of the newly formed countries solved this problem in its own way. Some - like Belarus - kept most of it, but Baltic countries were probably the most radical in attempt to establish their national identity and separate themselves from the Communist past. So various Soviet statues were taken down and dumped in different places 

Yet each of the Baltic counties treated them differently. Most started with a very commercial approach and sold them. There were plenty Western businessmen who considered it funny having bronze Lenin standing in their backyard. Some were exhibited in a funny manner: for  the statue of Lenin that stood in Pärnu lost its head during the fight for independence and nevertheless stood this way in front of New Art Museum for 12 years. Artists made various head replacement projects with plastic heads and orange bulbs among others. Or In Kuressaare - the capital of Saaremaa island that used to be called Kingisepp in the honor of an Estonian communist Victor Kingisepp - they plan to re-exhibit his statue. Only laying on the side partly dug in the ground.


As to other monuments that did not find eccentric buyers - they are still here, in the museum backyard:

Ironically, some of them ended up not better than their statues and were ground by the Soviet regime...

The most practical approach, however, is demonstrated by Lithuanians. An entrepreneur was granted the possession of the statues and started Grūtas Park, unofficially known as Stalin's World. The park imitates a Soviet concentration camp with wooden paths, watch towers and barbed wire. It is also possible to eat typical foods from a park café or buy Soviet-themed souvenirs from the gift shop.


A very rational approach to the history, don't you think?





Soon - Kadrioru park and palace, beautiful Northern Estonia and of course, Estonian islands of Muhu & Saaremaa.


If anyone is going to visit Estonia - be it for one day onboard a cruise ship or for a longer stay - feel free to ask any questions!

Tallinn. Pirita Convent.

Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, is one of the heavily photographed cities: UNESCO World heritage site, the oldest capital city in Northern Europe, Eurovision Song contest Capital 2002, European Cultural Capital 2011, destination port for several major cruise lines, regular ferry connections with Helsinki and Stockholm - all makes you think that every possible old rock here has been photographed.

Of course, old city is beautiful, well preserved and well worth a visit: city walls - one of the few that survived in Europe, spacious Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats), medieval shops & restaurants, several viewing platforms and of course breathtaking panorama from Saint Olaf's church - Oleviste Kirik - will all stand out in your memory. Many cruisers who had never heard of Tallinn prior to their trip, were pleasantly surprised by the Old City beauty, charm, cleanliness and good service.

But do not think that Tallinn and let alone Estonia are only worth a one-day visit. You could not be more wrong! Just a couple of minutes drive from the old city one can find truly amazing spots that are nor that well highlighted in tourist guidebooks. And if you devote a couple of days to visiting Estonian versatile regions and islands you will not be disappointed.

But lets us start from the capital, shall we?

Drive along the seaside by Narva Maantee (the beginning of Narva highway) enjoying Russalka monument on the left and Kadrioru Park on the right. Keep left and follow Pirita tee - road to Pirita. Try to keep your eyes on the road and not to get distracted by the Old City skyline and Maarjamäe castle you will end up in Pirita - formerly a Tallinn suburb, now a prestigious and not densely populated city district.

The district was named after Pirita Convent (Pirita klooster) that was founded by wealthy Tallinn merchants in the early 15th century. The name Pirita is an Estonian version of name Brigitta - St. Bridget of Sweden (or Birgitta Birgersdotter), the most notable Swedish saint. This girl born to a noble family in 14th century had a dream about the new type of monastery where both monks and nuns would live.

St. Bridget went to Rome and the Pope gave his approval to found a new monastic order. Each convent could not have more than 85 members: 60 sisters and 25 brothers preside by the abess. Of course, they had separate living quarters located on both sides of the church that was common for both sisters and brothers. The nuns and monks still did not see each other even during the joint masses: they accessed the main cathedral by two separate corridors and during the mass stayed on either sides of the cathedral.

Gallery leading to the cathedral from monk's side 

The inhabitants of the two sides of convent could only talk to each in one room called parlatorium located behind the main altar where nuns and monks quarters shared a wall. Still they could not see each other as there was only a little window in the wall only used to exchange information and small objects.

Nuns could not leave the monastery and spend their time taking care of housekeeping and handicrafts (of course, the kitchen is only located on the nun's side), praying and singing. They say, Bridgettine nuns can be called the first large women’s choir in Estonia: they performed seven times daily at one of region’s largest concert halls. While the sisters could not leave the convent even after their death and were buried in their own church, the brother could leave the monastery in order to give sermon at other churches.

The Pirita Convent that operated over 150 years, used to be the largest nunnery in Old Livonia (roughly territory of modern Latvia and Estonia). The design was so advanced for these times that there was hypocaust - system of underfloor heating in the meeting rooms and abbess' residence. The latter one even had bathroom. Of course, monastic cells were not heated.

The Pirita Convent was brutally destroyed by Russian army short invasion in late January 1575. The local inhabitants never restored most of the buildings because after Russian came Swedes who were already protestants. As protestantism proclaims primacy of the bible and there is not a word about monasticism there, the monasteries were not allowed and the convent was never restored.

Only the triangular gable with empty windows reigned over the surrounding buildings.

Triangular gable of the church

Former main entrance

For the next 400 hundred years the monastery laid in ruins. It is known that even as late as in the 1930s, potato field covered the former nuns quarters and the potatoes were stored in the former hypocaust of the abbess’s residence.

In 1969 the came out legendary Estonian movie Viimne reliikvia - The Last Reliquary - dedicated to the last day of Pirita Klooster. The film became so popular that some critics consider it the only Estonian cult movie: within the very first year, 772,000 tickets were sold in Estonia only while Estonia's population at that time was around 1,200,000. The film tried partly to depict the life in old convent but also stressed the will of the free nation to battle foreign forces. Disguised as a medieval romantic love story, the movie was one form of Estonian hidden protest against Soviet occupation. Songs from the movie that called up anyone who dreams about the freedom, to escape, are sung until now.

Probably, the interest to the movie led to the fact that in 1974 (400 years after the convent was destroyed) conservation works started.

On the foreground: nun's quarters after the conversation works have been conducted.

The monastery and church were not restored, instead the ruins were turned into a cultural space: museum by day, concert hall by n. Anything from opera festivals - Birgitta Opera Festival being the most notable one - to rock concerts and alternative theatrical performances is held in this unusual location.

Unusual concert hall

The excavations started here during the first Estonian Republic in 1934 and led to discovery of this cemetery than can still be seen next to the convent.

Pirita cemetery

Pirita cemetery: detail

Pirita cemetery: detail

Add caption Pirita cemetery: detail

The new St. Bridget convent, built next to the magnificent ruins of the old convent, was opened in 2001.


Soon - cemetery of Communist monuments in Maarjamäe castle, Kadrioru park and palace, beautiful Northern Estonia and of course, Estonian islands of Muhu & Saaremaa.


If anyone is going to visit Estonia - be it for one day onboard a cruise ship or for a longer stay - feel free to ask any questions!

Spain, Cadiz

The overview of this winter Canaries run would be incomplete without the mention of our visit to Cádiz. Even though originally it was not a part of the itinerary, a general strike in Spain forced us to change our itinerary and go to Cadiz instead of Tenerife. We all know with what passion southern people take their national hobby - strikes. As it turned out, nothing major happened in Canaries but there were a couple of broken glasses and burnt garbage bins in Madrid & Barcelona. Better safe than sorry.

As to us - we were happy. It is nice to break from the routine and revisit one of the cities we like.


The day was windy - no wonder for a city located on a narrow peninsula on the very edge of Europe, surrounded by Atlantic ocean from its three sides. The wind caused many guests and crew to stay onboard. But of course we were not among them! As soon as the ship has been cleared we were out on the streets.

On our previous visit Erkki was anxious to show me one unusual natural phenomenon that he had discovered on one of his previous visits. We headed towards the old fort of San Sebastian located at the end of a long, narrow and always windy spit.
The fort was built in 1706 and is now closed for visitors. Its future remains foggy but since the fort is under restoration (and has been at least for the last 2 years since our last visit) there are not many people around. Only waves batter against the rocks and seagulls patrol their territory. 

San Sebastian fort

San Sebastian fort

The fort is surrounded by unusual rock formations. Over the centuries waves created almost perfectly shaped cylindrical holes in the rocks. When the tide is on a certain level the waves come through these holes from underneath and break into a beautiful fountain-like spatter.

San Sebastian "fountains"

San Sebastian "fountains"

San Sebastian "fountains"

As the fort does not attract many visitors it is a good place for a picnic: just buy a bottle of wine and snacks from any nearby store and you can spend a gorgeous afternoon with beautiful views and seagulls taking care of the soundtrack.

Picnic near San Sebastian fort

Take a moment to meditate: hypnotize yourself with the constant motion of waves and the play of light on the reefs.

Now after you have reinforced yourself with a glass of good red, it is time to head to the city by the boardwalk.



Cadiz is one of the oldest (if not the oldest) continuously-inhabited cities in Europe 3100 years of history. Its first name was Gadir - "wall, compound", or, more generally, "walled stronghold" in Phoenician. Later as the name was nativised by Berbers it transformed into agadit.
So essentially Moroccan Agadir and Israeli town of Gedera have a similar etymology and can be considered namesakes.
In Latin, the city was known as Gades; in Arabic, it is called قادس (Qādis). Until now the Spanish autonym for a resident of Cádiz is gaditano.

Lanterns on Cádiz boardwalk

Cádiz boardwalk with Cathedral

The boarwalk brings you to Cathedral - one of Cádiz most famous landmarks.


One of Cádiz's most famous landmarks is its cathedral. Maybe the small size of the square makes it seem even bigger: not just huge, but enormous.
The square - Plaza de la Catedral - has been a sacred place since 1260 when the older cathedral was built here. It was burnt down in 1596 and it took gaditanos 80 years to start the reconstruction. Started in 1776, the reconstruction lasted another 116 years and resulted in several major changes to its original design made during this drawn-out period. Though the cathedral was originally intended to be a baroque edifice, it contains rococo elements, and was completed in the neoclassical style.
Being the successor of the old cathedral it inherited many of its paintings and relics.
Nowadays it will cost you 4€ to get inside the Cathedral.


Even though we had been to Cádiz before, we did not know that Torre de Poniente ("tower facing West"), one of the Cathedral towers, is open to the public and shows birdview  panoramas of the city .

The Plaza de la Catedral houses both the Cathedral and the Baroque Santiago church, built in 1635.

Baroque Santiago church

It will cost you another 5€ to climb up the tower by the ramp that seems never-ending. But it is well worth it.
From there the city seems very different: instead of grayish shady streets, you see it crispy white. Seems like the bright Spanish sun bounces off the white walls and dazzles you.
Because of this bright white, old times they used to call  Cádiz "the silver bowl". There was also a saying that "every night the city is washed, starched and ironed".

View of Cádiz from Poniente Tower. The port and Norwegian Jade are in the far right.

But the view from the top is ruthless: along with cute cafés and white buildings you can also see the abandon and neglect.

A different side of  Cádiz

Cafés on Plaza de Catedral

Cafés on Plaza de Catedral

Only from here can you see that the city actually lays on a narrow strip of land surrounded by Atlantic Ocean from its three sides.

View of Cádiz from Poniente Tower. The port and Norwegian Jade are in the far left.

The Cupola of Cádiz Cathedral

Being on top of the tower gives a better opportunity to see not only the city but the Cathedral itself. Looking up the towers from the square we did not notice this Moses with horns. Neither did we see these flame-like turrets. 

Bells inside Poniente Tower

Bells inside Poniente Tower

Of course, the view that we liked the best opened up one level below the open viewing platform and was covered with dusty glass. But when we looked at the resulting picture we even found the effect interesting, isn't it?

Cádiz Cathedral through the glass

Soon we were back on Plaza de Catdral. We walked past Baroque Santiago church by the streets of one of the most beautiful cities in Andalucia.

Even though the Cathedral is the main attraction it is not the only one. Cute details are everywhere: a door-knocker, a little cozy plaza, an unusual tree...

Soon we were on Plaza de San Antonio.
Built in the 18th century, by the 19th century it became Cádiz main square. Stately mansions once occupied by Cádiz upper classes grew around it. As the Spanish Constitution was proclaimed here in 1812, the square was subsequently called Plaza de la Constitución, but later was renamed Plaza San Antonio, after the hermit San Antonio built in 1669.

San Antonio church. Detail.

San Antonio church. Detail.

The square may not be the most important one of the city anymore but it definitely is one of the most beautiful. Especially in spring, with trees in bloom.

Plaza de San Antonio

San Antonio church

The wind quietened and being in Cádiz felt so good that we did not want to return on ship and stumbled upon restaurant ShowDeTapas. The name suggested that they offered small bites - tapas - made in a creative way. And we were not disappointed.

We know, there are many restaurants in Cádiz and we are sure that others are also worth a visit. But make sure you stop there for a bite! Even such simple foods as paté and Russian salad looked like upscale delicacies.

Russian salad - Ensaladilla Russa - in ShowDeTapas

By late afternoon there was no wind and the city was peaceful and quiet

Cádiz, we will miss you! But hope will be back.