Tallinn. Maarjamäe castle: Communist heirtage

We continue exploring Tallinn.

Now you know that the Old City is not the only spot worth a visit. Pirita district offers an opportunity to visit the ruins of a Bridgettine monastery - if you come daytime, or an unusual concert hall if you come in the evening.

Another spot worth a visit is  Maarjamäe loss - Maarjamäe castle, also often called Orlov Castle as it was a summer residence of Count Anatoli Orlov-Davydov.

Before the Count bought it the hill it successively bore several names. At the end of XVI century a battle between the troops of Russian Tsar Ivan the Terrible and Brotherhood of Blackheads took place here. So the hill was called Battle Hill - Lahingumägi in Estonian or Strietberg in German (as most nobles were of German decent). 

Then a sugar factory was built here and so it was called Suhkrumägi - Sugar Hill. As the factory was using Brazilian sugar cane and English coal by 1837 the enterprise was not anymore profitable so it was converted into all times profitable business - distillery - in 1860.

Despite the the industrial presence, the hill by the seaside saw continued use as a recreational area so no wonder in 1873 Count Orlov acquired it and gave it its present name:  Marienberg or Maarjamäe, likely in honour of the countess or daughter (both were Marias). 

A medieval castle with an octagonal tower was built. It also had a monumental gate eagles (the name Orlov derives from eagle)...

Eagle at the gate

...fountain adorned by a lion...

...and an attractive stair leading to the sea. Nowadays one can only imagine how impressive it was as after Pirita tee - Pirita Road - was built stairs lead to the bus stop and the road.

Gradually a manor-style park grew around it. The park comprised not only stables, servant's quarters and other auxiliary buildings but even countess' painting hut. Orlov-Davydov definitely had taste for a beautiful life.

Beautiful life ended with Russian Revolution: in 1920s Orlov-Davydov emigrated to France and the buildings were leased out as a vacation site. Then the building housed Dutch Consulate, a restaurant with pretentious name 'Riviera Palais' and finally since 1937 - a flight school. After Estonia was annexed by Soviet Russia, the castle was converted into shared apartments building (Soviet invention - an apartment where several families live sharing bathroom, toilet and kitchen).

Since 1975, the buildings house the Estonian History Museum covering the period from the beginning of the 19th century. The permanent exhibition contains replicas of interiors: merchant, peasant, worker at Krenholm factory and even the office of the first president of Estonia and a hut where lived metsavennad - forest brothers, partisans who waged a guerrilla war against Soviet rule.

Another reminder of Soviet times is in the museum backyard: monuments of the Soviet epoch are laying here without any specific order.

One can find here the sculptures of Estonian war heroes (those who fought on the Russian side, of course), Communist party leaders and of course Lenin & Stalin themselves.

Lenin

Wintertime the famous communist leader looks sometimes like orthodox Jew...

...and sometimes like a punk...

...but his famous "kind and wise eyes" can now be looked at a closer distance.

Stalin - whose name made people tremble - is now harmless and is treated more like scrap metal. 

After Estonia along with other Soviet Republics broke free from the Soviet Union and gained its independence, it was unclear what to do with Soviet heritage: monuments, street names, national holidays... Each of the newly formed countries solved this problem in its own way. Some - like Belarus - kept most of it, but Baltic countries were probably the most radical in attempt to establish their national identity and separate themselves from the Communist past. So various Soviet statues were taken down and dumped in different places 

Yet each of the Baltic counties treated them differently. Most started with a very commercial approach and sold them. There were plenty Western businessmen who considered it funny having bronze Lenin standing in their backyard. Some were exhibited in a funny manner: for  the statue of Lenin that stood in Pärnu lost its head during the fight for independence and nevertheless stood this way in front of New Art Museum for 12 years. Artists made various head replacement projects with plastic heads and orange bulbs among others. Or In Kuressaare - the capital of Saaremaa island that used to be called Kingisepp in the honor of an Estonian communist Victor Kingisepp - they plan to re-exhibit his statue. Only laying on the side partly dug in the ground.


As to other monuments that did not find eccentric buyers - they are still here, in the museum backyard:

Ironically, some of them ended up not better than their statues and were ground by the Soviet regime...

The most practical approach, however, is demonstrated by Lithuanians. An entrepreneur was granted the possession of the statues and started Grūtas Park, unofficially known as Stalin's World. The park imitates a Soviet concentration camp with wooden paths, watch towers and barbed wire. It is also possible to eat typical foods from a park café or buy Soviet-themed souvenirs from the gift shop.


A very rational approach to the history, don't you think?





Soon - Kadrioru park and palace, beautiful Northern Estonia and of course, Estonian islands of Muhu & Saaremaa.


If anyone is going to visit Estonia - be it for one day onboard a cruise ship or for a longer stay - feel free to ask any questions!

Tallinn. Pirita Convent.

Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, is one of the heavily photographed cities: UNESCO World heritage site, the oldest capital city in Northern Europe, Eurovision Song contest Capital 2002, European Cultural Capital 2011, destination port for several major cruise lines, regular ferry connections with Helsinki and Stockholm - all makes you think that every possible old rock here has been photographed.

Of course, old city is beautiful, well preserved and well worth a visit: city walls - one of the few that survived in Europe, spacious Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats), medieval shops & restaurants, several viewing platforms and of course breathtaking panorama from Saint Olaf's church - Oleviste Kirik - will all stand out in your memory. Many cruisers who had never heard of Tallinn prior to their trip, were pleasantly surprised by the Old City beauty, charm, cleanliness and good service.

But do not think that Tallinn and let alone Estonia are only worth a one-day visit. You could not be more wrong! Just a couple of minutes drive from the old city one can find truly amazing spots that are nor that well highlighted in tourist guidebooks. And if you devote a couple of days to visiting Estonian versatile regions and islands you will not be disappointed.

But lets us start from the capital, shall we?

Drive along the seaside by Narva Maantee (the beginning of Narva highway) enjoying Russalka monument on the left and Kadrioru Park on the right. Keep left and follow Pirita tee - road to Pirita. Try to keep your eyes on the road and not to get distracted by the Old City skyline and Maarjamäe castle you will end up in Pirita - formerly a Tallinn suburb, now a prestigious and not densely populated city district.

The district was named after Pirita Convent (Pirita klooster) that was founded by wealthy Tallinn merchants in the early 15th century. The name Pirita is an Estonian version of name Brigitta - St. Bridget of Sweden (or Birgitta Birgersdotter), the most notable Swedish saint. This girl born to a noble family in 14th century had a dream about the new type of monastery where both monks and nuns would live.

St. Bridget went to Rome and the Pope gave his approval to found a new monastic order. Each convent could not have more than 85 members: 60 sisters and 25 brothers preside by the abess. Of course, they had separate living quarters located on both sides of the church that was common for both sisters and brothers. The nuns and monks still did not see each other even during the joint masses: they accessed the main cathedral by two separate corridors and during the mass stayed on either sides of the cathedral.

Gallery leading to the cathedral from monk's side 

The inhabitants of the two sides of convent could only talk to each in one room called parlatorium located behind the main altar where nuns and monks quarters shared a wall. Still they could not see each other as there was only a little window in the wall only used to exchange information and small objects.

Nuns could not leave the monastery and spend their time taking care of housekeeping and handicrafts (of course, the kitchen is only located on the nun's side), praying and singing. They say, Bridgettine nuns can be called the first large women’s choir in Estonia: they performed seven times daily at one of region’s largest concert halls. While the sisters could not leave the convent even after their death and were buried in their own church, the brother could leave the monastery in order to give sermon at other churches.

The Pirita Convent that operated over 150 years, used to be the largest nunnery in Old Livonia (roughly territory of modern Latvia and Estonia). The design was so advanced for these times that there was hypocaust - system of underfloor heating in the meeting rooms and abbess' residence. The latter one even had bathroom. Of course, monastic cells were not heated.

The Pirita Convent was brutally destroyed by Russian army short invasion in late January 1575. The local inhabitants never restored most of the buildings because after Russian came Swedes who were already protestants. As protestantism proclaims primacy of the bible and there is not a word about monasticism there, the monasteries were not allowed and the convent was never restored.

Only the triangular gable with empty windows reigned over the surrounding buildings.

Triangular gable of the church

Former main entrance

For the next 400 hundred years the monastery laid in ruins. It is known that even as late as in the 1930s, potato field covered the former nuns quarters and the potatoes were stored in the former hypocaust of the abbess’s residence.

In 1969 the came out legendary Estonian movie Viimne reliikvia - The Last Reliquary - dedicated to the last day of Pirita Klooster. The film became so popular that some critics consider it the only Estonian cult movie: within the very first year, 772,000 tickets were sold in Estonia only while Estonia's population at that time was around 1,200,000. The film tried partly to depict the life in old convent but also stressed the will of the free nation to battle foreign forces. Disguised as a medieval romantic love story, the movie was one form of Estonian hidden protest against Soviet occupation. Songs from the movie that called up anyone who dreams about the freedom, to escape, are sung until now.

Probably, the interest to the movie led to the fact that in 1974 (400 years after the convent was destroyed) conservation works started.

On the foreground: nun's quarters after the conversation works have been conducted.

The monastery and church were not restored, instead the ruins were turned into a cultural space: museum by day, concert hall by n. Anything from opera festivals - Birgitta Opera Festival being the most notable one - to rock concerts and alternative theatrical performances is held in this unusual location.

Unusual concert hall

The excavations started here during the first Estonian Republic in 1934 and led to discovery of this cemetery than can still be seen next to the convent.

Pirita cemetery

Pirita cemetery: detail

Pirita cemetery: detail

Add caption Pirita cemetery: detail

The new St. Bridget convent, built next to the magnificent ruins of the old convent, was opened in 2001.


Soon - cemetery of Communist monuments in Maarjamäe castle, Kadrioru park and palace, beautiful Northern Estonia and of course, Estonian islands of Muhu & Saaremaa.


If anyone is going to visit Estonia - be it for one day onboard a cruise ship or for a longer stay - feel free to ask any questions!