It is impossible to continue telling about our Italian trip without a few notes about some local peculiarities that sometimes surprised us, sometimes irritated us or made us laugh. The cultural differences. The very reason we travel.
Since it is hard to illustrate these notes we will simply separate notes by pictures from the city of Fondi where we spent a week staying at my friend's.
Since it is hard to illustrate these notes we will simply separate notes by pictures from the city of Fondi where we spent a week staying at my friend's.
Italian buses
Being used to buses coming on clearly marked bus stops and departing promptly on time we were startled and perplexed by Italian bus system and if not for our Italian friend, we would have never found our way.
Where do we begin? For starters, there are two bus companies, their buses are different color (one white, the other blue), on white buses tickets are bought from the driver onboard, while for the blue ones the tickets must be purchased prior to the trip from Tobacco kiosk (Tabaccheria, always marked with a big blue T) and validated once on the bus. Moreover, blue buses stop on one side of the road while departing whilst the white ones stop on the same stop on arrival.
To add to the confusion, the timetable for blue buses is not posted anywhere and ― surprise! ― the bus stop may not be marked not with a post, not with a sign, not with a shelter. The only way to determine this place is indeed a bus stop is by the accumulation of knowledgeable locals around the expected arrival time. To make things worse the buses ― another surprise ― do not stop on the bus stops. Not unless someone jumps on the road in front of it making chaotic hand gestures, sometimes fortified with erratic jumps, depending on the potential passenger's fitness. This will make the bus driver notice that someone wants to get on the bus and ― hopefully ― stop.
But don't you hurry to get on it! First you must ask the driver if the bus indeed goes to your destination and only after this has been confirmed by an affirmative nod you can breathe out and get onboard.
But don't you lose vigilance once on it! The bus stops are not announced, not displayed anywhere. And you remember that the driver would not stop unless some future passenger comes out and starts the jumping-and-waving routine, so you actually have to press the 'request stop' button prior to reaching your desired destination. How you are supposed to know it if you are a foreigner taking this route for the first time still remains a mystery so make sure you ask around for help. Extensive knowledge of Italian ― even though would help ― is however not necessary, it will be enough to find the most seemingly knowledgeable signora and repeat your destination several times with questioning intonation.
For example, on the way to the coastal town of Terracina we came early expecting the 10:35 bus. So did a bunch of locals. However it did not show up. A bus showing 'Terracina' sign showed up at 10:50 and experienced signoras ran to the middle of the road and made all required jumps and waves, stopped the bus and most people with bags and baby strollers got in. But signoras knew better so their follow-up question revealed the bus was not going TO Terracina but FROM it. The news spread along the coach and the entire group (with bags and strollers) had to get off. We had no choice but to stay on the unmarked bus stop (that luckily my friend had showed to us the day before) because we had a backup plan: the 11:35 bus. Which eventually showed up at ― surprise! ― 11:55.
Once on the bus the driver looked at the crowd and asked if anyone was going to Monte San Biaggio. Despite the fact no one admitted to going there, as soon as we passed the crossroads some hysterical voices from the back immediately started screaming 'Monte San Biaggio!'... As it turns out, the company may change the route and go through different cities without any notice so never miss the final check prior to getting on the bus: the name of the city ― questioning intonation ― approving node.
We thought we were ready for the way back as my friend had explained to us where to find the bus stop (and no, it is not opposite of the arrival bus stop and there is no sign). Still, we were the ones that made a mistake: a bus that was stopped by jumping locals had no indication it was going to Fondi so we did not even bother asking. Wrong. As it turns out it was the correct bus which cost us another 1,5 hours on the bus stop desperately trying to see the approaching bus, always ready to jump out.
So when using Italian buses ask, ask again and then ask again.
Good luck!
To add to the confusion, the timetable for blue buses is not posted anywhere and ― surprise! ― the bus stop may not be marked not with a post, not with a sign, not with a shelter. The only way to determine this place is indeed a bus stop is by the accumulation of knowledgeable locals around the expected arrival time. To make things worse the buses ― another surprise ― do not stop on the bus stops. Not unless someone jumps on the road in front of it making chaotic hand gestures, sometimes fortified with erratic jumps, depending on the potential passenger's fitness. This will make the bus driver notice that someone wants to get on the bus and ― hopefully ― stop.
But don't you hurry to get on it! First you must ask the driver if the bus indeed goes to your destination and only after this has been confirmed by an affirmative nod you can breathe out and get onboard.
But don't you lose vigilance once on it! The bus stops are not announced, not displayed anywhere. And you remember that the driver would not stop unless some future passenger comes out and starts the jumping-and-waving routine, so you actually have to press the 'request stop' button prior to reaching your desired destination. How you are supposed to know it if you are a foreigner taking this route for the first time still remains a mystery so make sure you ask around for help. Extensive knowledge of Italian ― even though would help ― is however not necessary, it will be enough to find the most seemingly knowledgeable signora and repeat your destination several times with questioning intonation.
For example, on the way to the coastal town of Terracina we came early expecting the 10:35 bus. So did a bunch of locals. However it did not show up. A bus showing 'Terracina' sign showed up at 10:50 and experienced signoras ran to the middle of the road and made all required jumps and waves, stopped the bus and most people with bags and baby strollers got in. But signoras knew better so their follow-up question revealed the bus was not going TO Terracina but FROM it. The news spread along the coach and the entire group (with bags and strollers) had to get off. We had no choice but to stay on the unmarked bus stop (that luckily my friend had showed to us the day before) because we had a backup plan: the 11:35 bus. Which eventually showed up at ― surprise! ― 11:55.
Once on the bus the driver looked at the crowd and asked if anyone was going to Monte San Biaggio. Despite the fact no one admitted to going there, as soon as we passed the crossroads some hysterical voices from the back immediately started screaming 'Monte San Biaggio!'... As it turns out, the company may change the route and go through different cities without any notice so never miss the final check prior to getting on the bus: the name of the city ― questioning intonation ― approving node.
We thought we were ready for the way back as my friend had explained to us where to find the bus stop (and no, it is not opposite of the arrival bus stop and there is no sign). Still, we were the ones that made a mistake: a bus that was stopped by jumping locals had no indication it was going to Fondi so we did not even bother asking. Wrong. As it turns out it was the correct bus which cost us another 1,5 hours on the bus stop desperately trying to see the approaching bus, always ready to jump out.
So when using Italian buses ask, ask again and then ask again.
Good luck!
Tabaccheria
The multi-purposiveness of this place never ceased to surprise us. We already mentioned that it is the place to get bus tickets. It is also the place where you can receive the updated bus timetable (ask for orari) ― if they have one, of course. Apparently the transition from summer to winter schedule is quite a lengthy process: as per my Italian friend they just released the winter schedule in the beginning of December and until then no one really knew it.Tabaccheria is also your go-to place for your printing needs (e.g. if you need to print out your boarding pass or train ticket), postcards and stamps, even a cup of coffee. Well, and cigarettes, of course.
One thing you cannot get there, despite the multitude of its functions, is newspapers. For that you have to go to a newspaper kiosk (as well as for your phone account refill). However Tobacco man may buy newspapers from the kiosk and provide them for those having their usual espressos. Truly it works mysterious ways.
Post office
A funny thing about Poste Italiane is that you actually cannot buy stamps or postcards, only drop the ready letter. My friend explained they use it to pay pensions and to deposit/withdraw money off your bank account. By the way, the Tobacco man, this superhero of Italian towns, has the super-power to help you with this as well...
A lot has been written about this phenomenon of Mediterranean life style but let us add a few words because this time we observed it not as tourists but as ― dare I say ― family members. We understand it is extremely hot in the summertime and is next to impossible to get your head to work in such heat (we spent a year in the land of 'forever 35C' so we would know). Even though now most places have ACs.
But we were in Italy in the winter and even in Latina region (half way between Rome and Naples) the temperature reached +17C in the sun daytime whilst in the night it fell to around +5C. Not cold, I must say, speaking from -16C. But definitely not the kind of daytime heat you cannot stand. Yet siesta stays.
So a regular 8-hours working day is still split in half: instead of working 9:00 to 18:00 with one hour break the routine will go 9 to 13, then three hour break and again 4 to 8. So you leave for work at 8:30 and come back at 8:30. Then family dinner, traditionally the biggest meal of the day, and the day is over. True, three hours is enough to come home for a proper meal instead of munching sandwiches at work, afterwards you can take a nap. But ultimately it is the entire day spent working, even though with breaks.
And if you think that during these three hours you can run some errands (bank, shoemaker, grocery shopping) ― you are wrong. The only thing that is open during siesta is restaurants (which will close before 4pm, by the way, so you cannot get any food until 7-8pm) and Chinese shops. Ok, nowadays chain supermarkets are also open but traditional butchers', dairy store, fish shop are closed.
Never forget about it: if you want to have a picnic ― get your things before noon, if you want to eat a restaurant ― either do it at around 3pm maximum or wait till the evening.
People make the city alive. And in Italy with warm climate the culture of spending time outdoors stays even in the winter.
One thing we noticed was that elderly men and women do not spend their free time together: the ladies are seen shopping, picking fruits and veggies on the market, conversing with the vendors. In the meanwhile men gather on a bench under a tree, with their bikes of walking sticks and talk. Probably politics or football - not a topic for signoras.
Siesta
A lot has been written about this phenomenon of Mediterranean life style but let us add a few words because this time we observed it not as tourists but as ― dare I say ― family members. We understand it is extremely hot in the summertime and is next to impossible to get your head to work in such heat (we spent a year in the land of 'forever 35C' so we would know). Even though now most places have ACs.But we were in Italy in the winter and even in Latina region (half way between Rome and Naples) the temperature reached +17C in the sun daytime whilst in the night it fell to around +5C. Not cold, I must say, speaking from -16C. But definitely not the kind of daytime heat you cannot stand. Yet siesta stays.
So a regular 8-hours working day is still split in half: instead of working 9:00 to 18:00 with one hour break the routine will go 9 to 13, then three hour break and again 4 to 8. So you leave for work at 8:30 and come back at 8:30. Then family dinner, traditionally the biggest meal of the day, and the day is over. True, three hours is enough to come home for a proper meal instead of munching sandwiches at work, afterwards you can take a nap. But ultimately it is the entire day spent working, even though with breaks.
And if you think that during these three hours you can run some errands (bank, shoemaker, grocery shopping) ― you are wrong. The only thing that is open during siesta is restaurants (which will close before 4pm, by the way, so you cannot get any food until 7-8pm) and Chinese shops. Ok, nowadays chain supermarkets are also open but traditional butchers', dairy store, fish shop are closed.
Never forget about it: if you want to have a picnic ― get your things before noon, if you want to eat a restaurant ― either do it at around 3pm maximum or wait till the evening.
People
People make the city alive. And in Italy with warm climate the culture of spending time outdoors stays even in the winter.
One thing we noticed was that elderly men and women do not spend their free time together: the ladies are seen shopping, picking fruits and veggies on the market, conversing with the vendors. In the meanwhile men gather on a bench under a tree, with their bikes of walking sticks and talk. Probably politics or football - not a topic for signoras.
