We had never been to Slovenia before and since this was a "once off" repositioning cruise it was our only chance to see the country. Naturally, we did our "homework" and found out that even though the city of Koper had some historical buildings, the nearby city of Piran seemed a more attractive destination. Not only was the city full of historical attractions, not only was it poetically called an "open-air museum", it was also located on a narrow peninsula surrounded by city walls. Unusual natural setting is an attraction on its own so decision was made in favor of Piran. We found out that Koper and Piran are connected by a bus line and during peak hours there is a bus every 15 minutes. The bus stop is about 3km away from the cruise ship terminal. There also is a bus stop closer to the city center but we could determine its location. If anyone knows it please drop a link.
However when we tried to get off the ship there was an unpleasant surprise: the ship had not yet been cleared for crew. Usually an hour after we dock is enough for custom clearance of both guests and crew as well as for all tours and most independent travelers to leave the ship. We were hoping the delay was short and went to the promenade deck to have a look at the city. We were perplexed to see on the pier a white tent with long queues. We were told that Slovenian authorities were checking passports of every single passenger. And there were only 2 customs officers. Mind it, it is 2,500 guests and over a thousand crew.
Dear Slovenian authorities! If you read these words, please, simplify the procedure! If the guests paid so much money to be on the cruise, plus hotels and airfare on the way there and back, they would not travel with fake documents. And the crew who have traveled the world, seen all the continents and crossed all the oceans are not interested to "jump the ship" on the only stop in Slovenia, without passport and belongings. I am not saying it does not happen. It does. But in different ports, under very different circumstances. But that is another story, for another day.
After having wasted so much time waiting we decided not to waste it anymore walking to the bus stop and waiting for the bus so we opted for a cab. So even though the ladies at the info stall were eager to show us the way to the bus we asked about the prices for the cab. The same ladies told us the prices started from 25€ one way. We worded the price of 25€ right away and even though the driver chuckled and said it was too low he nevertheless agreed to it. So beware, after a cruiser docks there will be many people and prices might grow up: we met other crewmembers in Piran and they paid 70€ both ways.
Some taxi companies offer the option to pre-order the cab so you will be sure to have the cab and will have the price in advance.
The driver also offered to pick us up but as we had no phone and no definite plan we decided to try our luck in finding our own transportation back.
The drive through Slovenian countryside was gorgeous: well kept houses, neatly trimmed orchards and greenery. We could not believe that it used to be a part of one of the communist countries and that there was a war here only 10 years ago (ok, it only lasted 10 days but still) - not a trace of abandon or neglect.
Hilly winding roads made 13km (8.3 miles) last 40 minutes, even by cab. Plus, it was peak hour so our driver even had to take some shortcuts.
The taxi stopped right next to Tartini Square (Tartinijev trg in Slovenian or Piazza Tartini in Italian), the heart of Piran and one of the most photographed spots.
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| Tartini square |
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| Guiseppe Tartini monument on the eponymous square |
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| Guiseppe Tartini monument on the eponymous square |
One might wonder how such a large square could survive in a medieval town, why it was not covered with a chaotic maze of medieval buildings, especially in the city located on a narrow peninsula where every square meter counts. Well, it was not always a square: up until the end of 19th century it was an inner dock for fishing boats, and was located outside of the first city walls. In the Middle Ages important buildings and palaces appeared around the dock thus making an important site of the town. The site however had a big disadvantage: the sewage from the city ended up in the harbor. No wonder in 1894 the officials decided to bury the dock and set up a square. The port that was littered and silted up was cleared of debris, filled, and redeveloped.
In recent years during the main season (July 1 to September 1) no vehicles are allowed to park within the square so it truly became the heart of the city: couples meet at the monument, families seat at the nearby cafés, young boys play football. After the game, just like grown up men, they talk about sport & cars.
Among the buildings that grew around the newly created platform one really stands out: the gothic house named Benečanka, often simply called Venetian House. Built in the middle of the 15th century, it is the only building that has still preserved its original exterior.
This red palace is richly decorated with typical Venetian stone ornaments and architectural elements . The corner Gothic balcony is the most impressive.
Between the windows on the second floor there is an immured stone relief with a standing lion; under the lion you can read the inscription "Lassa pur dir".
According to Piran Board of Tourism site there is a legend behind it. When Piran was a a part of Venetian Republic and was an important trade port, a rich Venetian merchant fell in love with a local girl. The envious citizens disapproved of their union. So in order to show his love, wealth and at the same time demonstrate his defiance of public opinion, he built a beautiful palace and decorated it with the inscription still preserved on the façade: "Lassa pur dir" - “Let them talk”.
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| Benečanka, often simply called Venetian House |
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| The famous Benečanka balcony |
We decided to look around and dove into the labyrinth of cute little streets. Soon we found ourselves on the 1st of May Square or the Old Square (Piazza Vecchia), as it was first named. The Old Square used to be the administrative centre of the town until the 13th Century.
If you look at the city aerial view you will notice that the city is very densely built and this is the only square in Piran other than Tartini's. And again, there is a reason why nothing was built here: the severe drought of 1775 made it necessary to build a stone rainwater cistern. The cistern still occupies the center of the square.
The statues of two babies had a very practical function: the empty pots that the babies are holding were connected to the gutters from the surrounding roofs. The water was then stored in the cistern.
The stairs leading onto square are decorated with two allegorical statues of Law and Justice, Law holding the shield with data about the well: date, description of purpose, name of citizens who contributed to construction while Justice shield is decorated with Piran coat of arms as well as coats of arms of two important local families.
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| Statue of Justice with benefactors' coats of arms |
From the 1st of May square we walked through the maze of old streets...
...and ended up on the boardwalk - Prešernovo nabrežje. It is hard to miss as - remember, Piran is located on a narrow peninsula so the sea is pretty much in every direction.
The boardwalk is naturally dotted with cafés...
...and sculptures.
On the very tip there is a bastion and Saint Clement church. Prešernovo nabrežje embraces the city offering a beautiful promenade and allowing nearly every café to boast with waterfront view. Thus affecting the prices, of course.
It brings you to the local harbor, home to both upscale yachts and local fishermen's boats.
The harbor is protected by man-made wave breaker named Kidnčevo nabrežje offering views to the city dominated by Si. George's Cathedral. The cathedral was our next stop.
St. George is the patron saint of Piran so no wonder his cathedral reigns over the compact city center, defining its skyline. Most probably its construction started as early as 12th century and it was consecrated in 1344. Baroque renovations of 1637 gave the cathedral its present appearance.
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| St. George Cathedral Bell Tower |
The Bell Tower 46,45m high is a smaller scale copy of San Marco Campanile in Venice, thus confirming Venetian influence in Piran. During the summer months you may climb the tower and admire the view of the whole nearby Slovenian and Croatian Istria area, as well as the Italian coast from Triest to Duino, and from Tarvisio to Grado; on northern windy days you can even see the Julian Alps and Dolomites. And of course, the city of Piran itself.
If you have no trouble negotiating very uneven, a bit shaky and squeaky stairs, make sure you climb the tower! Being the only cheap thing in Piran - it only costs 1€ - the climb adds some adrenaline to your life but the views are rewarding:
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| Tartini square from St. George Cathedral Bell Tower |
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| Roofs of Piran |
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| Tartini square from St. George Cathedral Bell Tower |
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| View of the very tip of peninsula with bastion |
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| Tartini square and marina from St. George Cathedral Bell Tower |
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| View of city harbour from St. George Cathedral Bell Tower |
The belltower gives view of Piran Third wall up on the hill. The city had three walls built because of enlargement of the town. The first wall was built as early as 7th century and surrounded only four streets. In the end of 15th - beginning of 16th century the third wall, obviously the best preserved, was built. The Third wall is almost intact and supposedly there is a tower viewer on one of the towers. The time did not allow us to look for it and we did not find any information even on the map provided by tourist center. We tried to see people walking on the walls but to no avail. If anyone knows whether the towers are accessible please drop a comment.
We descending from the Cathedral hill by picturesque street Ulica IX Korpusa decorated with garlands.
A closer look showed that the garlands were made of rolled leaves. We do not know what it meant. One possible explanation we could think of was that the garlands were remainders of Saint George feats day that had taken place 4 days before. Anyway, what a beautiful way to make the city streets look festive!
On the way down the Bell tower popped up on top of the roofs and between the houses.
The time was running out so one short stop we made was at St. Francis church. Next to it there is a Franciscan monastery with a gracefully designed cloister.
Soon we were back at Tartini square. There we stopped at the tourist information office to find out the location of the bus stop...
...and had the last look at Tartini statue and Saint George Bell Tower.
Piran bus stop was very easy to find: just walk past the city harbor and you will see a couple of coaches.
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| Last look at Piran |
The bus was already there and we did not have to wait. But looks like there are buses very often. The ticket was 3.40€ and we took a different route: along the coastline past hotels, hotels and more hotels. Slovenia can boast only 47km of coastline and it is literally jammed with all sorts of tourist accommodations. Then we turned inland and headed back to Koper.
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