Spain, Cadiz

The overview of this winter Canaries run would be incomplete without the mention of our visit to Cádiz. Even though originally it was not a part of the itinerary, a general strike in Spain forced us to change our itinerary and go to Cadiz instead of Tenerife. We all know with what passion southern people take their national hobby - strikes. As it turned out, nothing major happened in Canaries but there were a couple of broken glasses and burnt garbage bins in Madrid & Barcelona. Better safe than sorry.

As to us - we were happy. It is nice to break from the routine and revisit one of the cities we like.


The day was windy - no wonder for a city located on a narrow peninsula on the very edge of Europe, surrounded by Atlantic ocean from its three sides. The wind caused many guests and crew to stay onboard. But of course we were not among them! As soon as the ship has been cleared we were out on the streets.

On our previous visit Erkki was anxious to show me one unusual natural phenomenon that he had discovered on one of his previous visits. We headed towards the old fort of San Sebastian located at the end of a long, narrow and always windy spit.
The fort was built in 1706 and is now closed for visitors. Its future remains foggy but since the fort is under restoration (and has been at least for the last 2 years since our last visit) there are not many people around. Only waves batter against the rocks and seagulls patrol their territory. 

San Sebastian fort

San Sebastian fort

The fort is surrounded by unusual rock formations. Over the centuries waves created almost perfectly shaped cylindrical holes in the rocks. When the tide is on a certain level the waves come through these holes from underneath and break into a beautiful fountain-like spatter.

San Sebastian "fountains"

San Sebastian "fountains"

San Sebastian "fountains"

As the fort does not attract many visitors it is a good place for a picnic: just buy a bottle of wine and snacks from any nearby store and you can spend a gorgeous afternoon with beautiful views and seagulls taking care of the soundtrack.

Picnic near San Sebastian fort

Take a moment to meditate: hypnotize yourself with the constant motion of waves and the play of light on the reefs.

Now after you have reinforced yourself with a glass of good red, it is time to head to the city by the boardwalk.



Cadiz is one of the oldest (if not the oldest) continuously-inhabited cities in Europe 3100 years of history. Its first name was Gadir - "wall, compound", or, more generally, "walled stronghold" in Phoenician. Later as the name was nativised by Berbers it transformed into agadit.
So essentially Moroccan Agadir and Israeli town of Gedera have a similar etymology and can be considered namesakes.
In Latin, the city was known as Gades; in Arabic, it is called قادس (Qādis). Until now the Spanish autonym for a resident of Cádiz is gaditano.

Lanterns on Cádiz boardwalk

Cádiz boardwalk with Cathedral

The boarwalk brings you to Cathedral - one of Cádiz most famous landmarks.


One of Cádiz's most famous landmarks is its cathedral. Maybe the small size of the square makes it seem even bigger: not just huge, but enormous.
The square - Plaza de la Catedral - has been a sacred place since 1260 when the older cathedral was built here. It was burnt down in 1596 and it took gaditanos 80 years to start the reconstruction. Started in 1776, the reconstruction lasted another 116 years and resulted in several major changes to its original design made during this drawn-out period. Though the cathedral was originally intended to be a baroque edifice, it contains rococo elements, and was completed in the neoclassical style.
Being the successor of the old cathedral it inherited many of its paintings and relics.
Nowadays it will cost you 4€ to get inside the Cathedral.


Even though we had been to Cádiz before, we did not know that Torre de Poniente ("tower facing West"), one of the Cathedral towers, is open to the public and shows birdview  panoramas of the city .

The Plaza de la Catedral houses both the Cathedral and the Baroque Santiago church, built in 1635.

Baroque Santiago church

It will cost you another 5€ to climb up the tower by the ramp that seems never-ending. But it is well worth it.
From there the city seems very different: instead of grayish shady streets, you see it crispy white. Seems like the bright Spanish sun bounces off the white walls and dazzles you.
Because of this bright white, old times they used to call  Cádiz "the silver bowl". There was also a saying that "every night the city is washed, starched and ironed".

View of Cádiz from Poniente Tower. The port and Norwegian Jade are in the far right.

But the view from the top is ruthless: along with cute cafés and white buildings you can also see the abandon and neglect.

A different side of  Cádiz

Cafés on Plaza de Catedral

Cafés on Plaza de Catedral

Only from here can you see that the city actually lays on a narrow strip of land surrounded by Atlantic Ocean from its three sides.

View of Cádiz from Poniente Tower. The port and Norwegian Jade are in the far left.

The Cupola of Cádiz Cathedral

Being on top of the tower gives a better opportunity to see not only the city but the Cathedral itself. Looking up the towers from the square we did not notice this Moses with horns. Neither did we see these flame-like turrets. 

Bells inside Poniente Tower

Bells inside Poniente Tower

Of course, the view that we liked the best opened up one level below the open viewing platform and was covered with dusty glass. But when we looked at the resulting picture we even found the effect interesting, isn't it?

Cádiz Cathedral through the glass

Soon we were back on Plaza de Catdral. We walked past Baroque Santiago church by the streets of one of the most beautiful cities in Andalucia.

Even though the Cathedral is the main attraction it is not the only one. Cute details are everywhere: a door-knocker, a little cozy plaza, an unusual tree...

Soon we were on Plaza de San Antonio.
Built in the 18th century, by the 19th century it became Cádiz main square. Stately mansions once occupied by Cádiz upper classes grew around it. As the Spanish Constitution was proclaimed here in 1812, the square was subsequently called Plaza de la Constitución, but later was renamed Plaza San Antonio, after the hermit San Antonio built in 1669.

San Antonio church. Detail.

San Antonio church. Detail.

The square may not be the most important one of the city anymore but it definitely is one of the most beautiful. Especially in spring, with trees in bloom.

Plaza de San Antonio

San Antonio church

The wind quietened and being in Cádiz felt so good that we did not want to return on ship and stumbled upon restaurant ShowDeTapas. The name suggested that they offered small bites - tapas - made in a creative way. And we were not disappointed.

We know, there are many restaurants in Cádiz and we are sure that others are also worth a visit. But make sure you stop there for a bite! Even such simple foods as paté and Russian salad looked like upscale delicacies.

Russian salad - Ensaladilla Russa - in ShowDeTapas

By late afternoon there was no wind and the city was peaceful and quiet

Cádiz, we will miss you! But hope will be back.