Showing posts with label spain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label spain. Show all posts

Friday, June 29, 2012

Food and travel

The food is a very big part of our travel experience. But even though we already started with some pointers for restaurants worth of try and food curiosities out there, we think that there are still many aspects that travelers often do not take in consideration while abroad.

Here are some thoughts how to better enjoy food while traveling.

1. First and foremost, in order to enjoy all these strange or even weird food stuff out there you have to stop comparing it to what you are used to back home.
Have you ever tried limpets?
How about Banana-Ananaz?


Maracua-Ananaz?

Maracuja-Tomato or Banana-Maracuja?
...or.. this fruit? (Sorry we did not get its name)
2. Second – keep an open mind, quite often things or combination of things what you never considered edible can be rather delicious.
How about Scabbard fish with shrimp mousse and... banana?


3. The third rule what we have on our travels is to eat and drink the local!!

Famous Spanish ham - Jamón serrano
Jamón serrano (Spain)
Basque pintxos (small snacks served on a slice of white bread and spiked with a skewer or toothpick)
Grilled Octopus (Greece)
However it is not always possible but at least we try it and make adjustments afterwards: there are places in the world where there is no authentic local food available or it is not really considered edible by our standards. Caribbean islands being a good example: the only authentic food there we found – conch fritters - and it basically tastes like deep fried anything. And as locals deep fry everything, even deliciously fresh local fish is killed properly in boiling oil. But man has to eat so we had to stick to some touristy fusion restaurants where, despite the price factor, it is possible to find something more palatable.
And speaking of Caribbean – while on beach try to avoid the so cool beach Rasta bar! They more often then not make these exotic cocktails in umbrella infested coconut shells with some cheap local industrial Rum. It looks good, but it makes you 
very drunk very fast and as a free addition you will kill much more brain cells then you calculated for + terrible headache will follow the exotic experience and spoil the rest of your day. We know – we tried , and shameful to say but more then twice.


But back to food….

4. It is also important to understand that in different regions people have different eating habits time-wise – for example southern people in Europe eat their dinner much later then northerners are used to. Adjusting your biological clock to new rhythm is often the hardest part. So if you try eating at the time you are used to while on vacation you might be limited to food establishments that are open only for tourists and will miss all the authentic experience. Try to find food before 7:30pm in the Mediterranean! The only option you will have is sandwich, burger or kebab. All restaurants where locals eat will not open their doors before 7:30pm and the kitchen will follow at 8:00pm. It is logical: all boutiques and shops (except for a handful of big supermarkets) are open till 7. So the employees have time to close the business and make it to dinner.

Do not believe the signage telling you about authentic food experience in tourist restaurants – we have visited more than 70 different countries and tourist traps sell always some fusion of local stuff and the chef's idea of what a tourist is supposed to like ( usually burger with some local addition ).



5. As a rule of thumb – places where locals gather and what tend to be crowded at peak hours - though often funny hole in the wall that does not smell so nice – tend to have the best food. Beautiful sea view and overpriced burger are usually reserved for misinformed tourists with heavy wallets.

As comes to Spanish cuisine (last 4 months we have been cruising between Spain main land and Canary Islands) we ended up pleasantly surprised by the variety and quality of food.



Of course, we have to stop longer on tapas tradition. We absolutely love this format of food. You wish just a snack with your wine take one tapas, you feel bit hungrier – let us have another one.

An example of tapas platter served in Teguise, Lanzarote, Canaries Islands
They are comfortably small portions with endless variety of food combinations priced from 1 euro in rural areas up to 3-4 euros in Barcelona fancyish wine bars. Usually finger licking delicious and affordable snack, and when you get to know tapas geography better then there is kind’ a sport of Tapas hopping – bit of wine and white bait in that bar, glass of vermouth and blood sausage in other… and so on as much your head and wallet can take.

Pan con tomate - bread with tomato - a typical Catalan starter, in some places is still served automatically
Pimientos de Padrón - a variety of sweet peppers coming from  Padrón fried in olive oil 
Canarian tapas platter: chorizo (sausage), olives, fried bread, pimientos  de Padrón, variety of cheeses and gofio - typical Canaraian food.
And there come Spanish classics like Jamon Iberico (Local dried ham, depends on region taste varies – our favorite being slightly smoked)...

...all kinds of Morcilla (black pudding that usually comes in the shape of sausage, but can be just dish made with blood – no –no food for vegetarians )...

...seafood in coastal towns ( you cant get shrimp taste so sweet if it is still not dancing while you cook it)...

In fish market in Cadiz we got serious drooling fit – the selection was huge, crustaceans alone were 6 different kinds + lots of fish - some still alive. Olives are supposedly the best in Cadiz region, but French from Provence boast the same about their olives and Italians - about their Sicilian olives.  So at the end of the day you have to visit all these places and choose your favorite – seriously hard task, they are all so good. But we are up to the challenge.


And each village (or actually each finca) makes them their own special way, how they were taught by their parents and grandparents – a world of tastes in this little olive.


Soon to be continued.....


P.S. Read more about pasta in La Laguna & simple food in the Canaries.

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Spain, Cadiz

The overview of this winter Canaries run would be incomplete without the mention of our visit to Cádiz. Even though originally it was not a part of the itinerary, a general strike in Spain forced us to change our itinerary and go to Cadiz instead of Tenerife. We all know with what passion southern people take their national hobby - strikes. As it turned out, nothing major happened in Canaries but there were a couple of broken glasses and burnt garbage bins in Madrid & Barcelona. Better safe than sorry.

As to us - we were happy. It is nice to break from the routine and revisit one of the cities we like.


The day was windy - no wonder for a city located on a narrow peninsula on the very edge of Europe, surrounded by Atlantic ocean from its three sides. The wind caused many guests and crew to stay onboard. But of course we were not among them! As soon as the ship has been cleared we were out on the streets.

On our previous visit Erkki was anxious to show me one unusual natural phenomenon that he had discovered on one of his previous visits. We headed towards the old fort of San Sebastian located at the end of a long, narrow and always windy spit.
The fort was built in 1706 and is now closed for visitors. Its future remains foggy but since the fort is under restoration (and has been at least for the last 2 years since our last visit) there are not many people around. Only waves batter against the rocks and seagulls patrol their territory. 


San Sebastian fort

San Sebastian fort
The fort is surrounded by unusual rock formations. Over the centuries waves created almost perfectly shaped cylindrical holes in the rocks. When the tide is on a certain level the waves come through these holes from underneath and break into a beautiful fountain-like spatter.


San Sebastian "fountains"

San Sebastian "fountains"

San Sebastian "fountains"
As the fort does not attract many visitors it is a good place for a picnic: just buy a bottle of wine and snacks from any nearby store and you can spend a gorgeous afternoon with beautiful views and seagulls taking care of the soundtrack.



Picnic near San Sebastian fort
Take a moment to meditate: hypnotize yourself with the constant motion of waves and the play of light on the reefs.



Now after you have reinforced yourself with a glass of good red, it is time to head to the city by the boardwalk.



Cadiz is one of the oldest (if not the oldest) continuously-inhabited cities in Europe 3100 years of history. Its first name was Gadir - "wall, compound", or, more generally, "walled stronghold" in Phoenician. Later as the name was nativised by Berbers it transformed into agadit.
So essentially Moroccan Agadir and Israeli town of Gedera have a similar etymology and can be considered namesakes.
In Latin, the city was known as Gades; in Arabic, it is called قادس (Qādis). Until now the Spanish autonym for a resident of
Cádiz is gaditano.



Lanterns on Cádiz boardwalk

Cádiz boardwalk with Cathedral
The boarwalk brings you to Cathedral - one of Cádiz most famous landmarks.


One of Cádiz's most famous landmarks is its cathedral. Maybe the small size of the square makes it seem even bigger: not just huge, but enormous.
The square - Plaza de la Catedral - has been a sacred place since 1260 when the older cathedral was built here. It was burnt down in 1596 and it took gaditanos 80 years to start the reconstruction. Started in 1776, the reconstruction lasted another 116 years and resulted in several major changes to its original design made during this drawn-out period. Though the cathedral was originally intended to be a baroque edifice, it contains rococo elements, and was completed in the neoclassical style.
Being the successor of the old cathedral it inherited many of its paintings and relics.
Nowadays it will cost you 4€ to get inside the Cathedral.


Even though we had been to Cádiz before, we did not know that Torre de Poniente ("tower facing West"), one of the Cathedral towers, is open to the public and shows birdview  panoramas of the city .



The Plaza de la Catedral houses both the Cathedral and the Baroque Santiago church, built in 1635.
Baroque Santiago church
It will cost you another 5€ to climb up the tower by the ramp that seems never-ending. But it is well worth it.
From there the city seems very different: instead of grayish shady streets, you see it crispy white. Seems like the bright Spanish sun bounces off the white walls and dazzles you.
Because of this bright white, old times they used to call  Cádiz "the silver bowl". There was also a saying that "every night the city is washed, starched and ironed".


View of Cádiz from Poniente Tower. The port and Norwegian Jade are in the far right.
But the view from the top is ruthless: along with cute cafés and white buildings you can also see the abandon and neglect.

A different side of  Cádiz
Cafés on Plaza de Catedral

Cafés on Plaza de Catedral
Only from here can you see that the city actually lays on a narrow strip of land surrounded by Atlantic Ocean from its three sides.


View of Cádiz from Poniente Tower. The port and Norwegian Jade are in the far left.

The Cupola of Cádiz Cathedral
Being on top of the tower gives a better opportunity to see not only the city but the Cathedral itself. Looking up the towers from the square we did not notice this Moses with horns. Neither did we see these flame-like turrets. 



Bells inside Poniente Tower

Bells inside Poniente Tower
Of course, the view that we liked the best opened up one level below the open viewing platform and was covered with dusty glass. But when we looked at the resulting picture we even found the effect interesting, isn't it?

Cádiz Cathedral through the glass
Soon we were back on Plaza de Catdral. We walked past Baroque Santiago church by the streets of one of the most beautiful cities in Andalucia.




Even though the Cathedral is the main attraction it is not the only one. Cute details are everywhere: a door-knocker, a little cozy plaza, an unusual tree...








Soon we were on Plaza de San Antonio.
Built in the 18th century, by the 19th century it became Cádiz main square. Stately mansions once occupied by Cádiz upper classes grew around it. As the Spanish Constitution was proclaimed here in 1812, the square was subsequently called Plaza de la Constitución, but later was renamed Plaza San Antonio, after the hermit San Antonio built in 1669.



San Antonio church. Detail.

San Antonio church. Detail.
The square may not be the most important one of the city anymore but it definitely is one of the most beautiful. Especially in spring, with trees in bloom.


Plaza de San Antonio

San Antonio church




The wind quietened and being in Cádiz felt so good that we did not want to return on ship and stumbled upon restaurant ShowDeTapas. The name suggested that they offered small bites - tapas - made in a creative way. And we were not disappointed.



We know, there are many restaurants in Cádiz and we are sure that others are also worth a visit. But make sure you stop there for a bite! Even such simple foods as paté and Russian salad looked like upscale delicacies.

Russian salad - Ensaladilla Russa - in ShowDeTapas


By late afternoon there was no wind and the city was peaceful and quiet




Cádiz, we will miss you! But hope will be back.